How to texture a ceiling or wall
Author: Dale Ovenstone
For creating the stipple effect, a asquare brusha which contains aflexible rubber prongsa over the surface of the face side of the tool; is used to lightly; abouncea off, the textured surface.
You can also create the same effect, if you roll onto the surface, the texture mix, and keep on rolling over this until a stipple is finally achieved.
The depth on the afinished texturea pattern depends on how thick the consistency of the texture powder is mixed, plus also, how thick you apply the mixed texture material onto the surface to be textured.
To create a final auniformeda finish, you must make sure that you roll out the applied texture as evenly as possible onto the surface; and keeping it the same depth/level, throughout the whole ceiling.
A lot of new build establishments favour a stipple, broken leather or swirl pattern, usually a stipple pattern can be done quickly, and as texture coating dries out reasonably white doesn't need painting afterwards, thus saving both time and money for the contractor.
In this section I'm going to take a look at the stipple pattern for its uniformed, soft or heavy finish; and the speed at which it can be done.
The stipple pattern is sometime known as 'Knockdown'
To achieve this finish, the prepared surface/area to be textured onto has to be as aflat and as level as possiblea (Otherwise, any discrepancies and uneven surfaces will show through afterwards).
As this pattern requires the final mixed texture material to resemble a thick emulsion type of paint, I find this one of the messiest patterns to do also.
Mix up a bucket of texture powder, (thick first to get out the lumps).
After letting the thickly mixed texture rest for a few minutes in the bucket, add small amounts of cold water into the texture mix to thin it out.
Then transfer this mixed texture material into the large roller bucket ready for application, and mix once again, using the bumper tool, or drill with the mixing attachment.
When adding cold water to mix down the texture coating to the required consistency, just add a little at a time, as it is not advisable to add powder at this later stage.
The finished product should now resemble thick emulsion paint.
Next step: Decide where to start the pattern onto the ceiling.
I find, when doing a stipple, that the best place to start is furthest away from the room door entrance.
1: Using the large paint roller, attached to the pole/handle, dip the roller head completely into the bucket of mixed texture, to completely cover the roller head. (You can also use a small roller for application if you want.)
2: Lift the roller out and give it a little shake to get rid of the residue, and then sharply offer the loaded roller head to the ceiling surface.
3: Start along the wall edge of the ceiling, (when using the roller, and always extend your straightened arms upwards, and away from you).
4: With a light but firm pressure, pull the roller towards, and above you, to spread the material onto the surface, (rolling on may take a little practise to get right, but this method is used to roll on for any ceiling work.)
5: When you've rolled the texture onto the ceiling, (about 3 foot area coverage) load the roller once again, and roll it onto the ceiling, next to the area that you've just covered.
6: Continue this method until a large area has been coated with the texture mix, probably a third or even half of the ceiling, depending on the size of the area to be covered.
7: When you've completed this; and using the roller again, (but don't load it with texture mix this time), continue to roll out, in the opposite direction of the applied texture, to even out (spread out) the texture coating already applied to the ceiling, otherwise you'll have an uneven finish when you come to stipple it: the thickness of the texture on the ceiling should be about half an inch in depth.
8: The next step is to prime the stipple brush with the mixed texture coating, you can use a large or small stipple brush; but you will get a more uniformed pattern with a large brush, especially if your texturing larger surfaces, making sure a wooden handle is attached to the large stipple brush so that you can reach the ceiling height.
Below is a quick summary:
1: Apply the texture to the surface.
Rolling on about a third or even half of the ceiling).
2: Take the roller, (but don't load it with texture mix this time).
Roll out onto the ceiling, in the opposite direction of the applied texture to 'even out' the texture already there: otherwise the finished pattern will look uneven.
The next step is to prime the stipple brush.
3: Attach a pole/handle to the stipple brush and hold it so that the soft rubber bristles are pointing upwards.
4: Load the roller head with the texture mix, and gently roll this small amount across the surface of the stipple brush, (the rubber bristles) making sure that you don't squash down or flatten the rubber bristles; once coated with texture we are now ready to stipple the coated area.
5: Stand directly beneath the area to be textured, start along the ceiling/wall edge then lightly bounce the stipple brush onto the ceiling to create the desired effect.
6: Continue stippling and bouncing onto the coated area.
(Going to the room door entrance to take a look every now and again, and don't forget, what you can see, so will others-make any adjustments as necessary)
continue rolling onto the ceiling, and stippling until complete.
7: Finally, run an inch sized brush around the perimeter of the ceiling to wall line to create a tidy border, and not forgetting the centre rose light also, to tidy up.
You can also use a small stipple brush to create this design, but if you're using the large brush, it seems easier to create a more uniformed finish.
The stipple pattern can also be created by just rolling the texture coating onto the surface and then keep rolling the mix out with the roller head until a stipple type pattern is eventually formed.
If you want a heavier stipple effect, mix the thick texture down with cold water as normal but do not add as much water so that you are left with a thicker consistency in the bucket, and then roll this mixture onto the surface, thickly.
A heavy stipple is great for lacing back (flattening slightly) To create an aanaglyptica looking effect.
Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/diy-articles/how-to-texture-a-ceiling-or-wall-1110074.html
About the Author
Dale Ovenstone, creator, author & publisher of unique 'diy' DVD's & e-books designed for any 'diy' enthusiast, to at last, have a go themselves.
http://www.lookreadlearn.com
http://www.diy-ceiling-wall-texture.com
http://www.unbelievable-internet-income.com
Go on, Create a Craze! 2009
Dale Ovenstone
Frequently Asked Questions
-
QUESTION:
How do I connect the NEXT ceiling light from the first,and so on,?
I'm running new wire (romex) from the circuit breaker to all ceiling fixtures. Doing the one single pole "end of run" is simple enough but can't figure where or how to connect the next switch going to the next light. Is a junction box needed at each switch?
-
ANSWER:
The easiest way to do this is like this.
From your panel run a 14-2 romex (good for 15 amp breaker) to your first light switch. Then run your romex to your next light switch once you have power to all your switch locations then you can run wire up to your lights..
This is the basics if you need help with hooking up the switches email me
-
QUESTION:
Ceiling light for two rooms next two each other don't turn on, but wall outlets work. What could be wrong?
I went outside and turned the main switch off and on and it didn't fix it.
-
ANSWER:
Do you have a separate lighting circuit? next, check if you have separate switch loops for each room to turn the light in each room. If there is, then the power is in the ceiling box itself. Check if power is there. If ther is none, it may be fed from a receptacle. Some people who do wiring, use the push in tabs on the back of the outlet to make life easier for themselves, but that connection often fails. If power was fed from a receptacle, it may jump over to the next rooms light also. Next possibility. Newer construction requires arc fault protection in bedrooms. You may want to check this also! Plus, you mention turning a main switch off and on. Check the branch circuits, not the main!
-
QUESTION:
ever see those red lights in the move theater ceiling lights?
what the hell are they for it kills me every time i go! what are they for? i have no clue as to what they could do or anything...there in every theater ive ever been to and there in almost every light...next time you go look up if you dont know what im talking about
-
QUESTION:
if wish to install a ceiling fan into ceiling .1 ft next to ceiling light..how difficult it is to punch hole ?
actually already have an inserted celing light,,but would just like to fill it in and make a hole NEXT to it about 1 foot as having a ceiling fan in that spot would cause blades to hit the slanted ceiling... and would like to move it actually about a foot to the right..so how difficult would it be to punch out the area where would like to have ceiling fan and run the cables to this?
and will there be a stud or something more than likely a foot next to the hole where ceiling light is currently?
how difficult and messy a job?
to first answerer..the ceiling is already very short..and dont think i want a fan hanging down that low.
to second answerer...that is the main part of question..how difficult is it to punch a hole out of the ceiling and not make a mess...also, how difficult to run electrical wires from ceiling light 1 ft next to it and FILL IT IN nicely?
-
ANSWER:
to prevent the blades from hitting the slant of the ceiling you would need to use a drop fan instead of a ceiling hugger. Go to your local home depot and ask there. there are several different pole lengths you can get for a drop fan.
The problem with this lies in if there is a beam to support the weight of the fan. The can get pretty heavy especially in motion. You would have to go into the attic (if accessable) and look at where the original light is at and see if there is a beam available to hang the fan from 1 foot over.
You may get lucky.
As for filling in the hole from the light...it depends on what material your ceiling is made from. If it's sheet rock they make patches to cover holes and if you follow the directions carefully and to the t you will not be able to tell that it has been patched.
Running electrical wires is pretty easy, make sure you use the same or heavier gauge, wire nuts and electrical tape to extend the length of the wires. And make note of positive, negative and ground. Feed them through to the new hole prior to patching the old one.
-
QUESTION:
Wiring two ceiling fan/lights in tandem?
I am rough wiring in new construction -- I know how to wire for a ceiling fan light fixture, but:
One room is large enough to have two ceiling fan light fixtures -- I would like each fan to be controlled from its own separate fan control, but have one single light switch which turns on/off both lights simultaneously.
Fan Control #1 -> Fan #1
Fan Control #2 -> Fan #2
Light Switch -> FanLight #1 and FanLight #2
Is it possible, instead of using a 3-wire cable, can I just wire as if the light and fan are two separate fixtures, and run two 2-wire cables to the fixture, with the cable for the light branching to the next light, then run a separate 2-wire cable from the second fan control to the second fan?
Or, should I wire the first fixture with the "traditional" 3-wire method, and branch just the one single red wire from the light to the second light fixtre, then run a 2-wire cable from the second fan control to the second fan? Would a single red wire running through ceiling still meet code?
@Lediy99: Yes, I think you get what I am trying to do, a total of three switches. I am wiring the whole house, so I have plenty of both 2-wire and 3-wire cable -- and am using 12 gauge minimum everywhere (no 14 gauge or smaller).
Okay, how about this:
In a normal configuration, with one light switch, one fan switch, and one combined fixture, I would run 12/2 to the switches, then use 12/3 from the two switches to the fixure, with the load for fan on the black wire, and the load for the light on the red wire, right?
So, if I run 12/3 from each fan switch to each combined fixture, with the black wires still providing the load for each fan from each fan switch, but then, in the switch box, nut the two reds that are going to the lights together with a pigtail from the light switch, would that achieve the result (and still be safe/meetcode)?
-
ANSWER:
1) Yes you can, but...
2) 3 conductor is what an electrician would use.
3) NO, it is a code violation to run a single conductor as you describe it.
It sounds to me like you have lots of 2 conductor cable and no 3 conductor cable, am I right? If you run two 2 conductor cables you still need to use all wires. You're thinking of capping off one of the white wires as you don't need 2 neutrals at each fan, right? You may use 2 of 3 wires in a 3 conductor cable but you must use both conductors of a 2 conductor cable. Per code.
One way is to feed the fan motors power all the time (constant hot) and use the pull chain switches to control them.
Or you can get 2 identical wireless remotes and set the codes alike. With the wall switch off the remotes won't operate the lights but will still control the fans (all be it simultaneously) but in a pinch you can still use the pull chain to turn one fan down or off.
Now if I understand you correctly you want both lights on one switch and EACH fan to be on its own switch for a total of 3 switches, correct?
Start by running power (hot and neutral) to a 3g (g = gang) DEEP box. Trust me here, the deep box is only a few cents more but will make it SO much easier to stuff all the wires, wire nuts, switch and motor controllers into latter. I use deep boxes anytime I have 3 or more cables/GFI/dimmer or such in it, but that's my preference
If you are sure you are going to use a 15 amp breaker on this circuit you may use 14 gauge wire, but I recommend using 12 gauge and a 20 amp breaker just because.
Now run a 3 conductor (12/2 romex) to each fan. At the wall box tie the black wires together and attach to the light switch. Put one red wire to each motor controller. Tie the neutrals together. This way the only connections you'll be making at each fan will be for that fan only. OH, and ground everything of course.
Sincerely hope I've been of some help.
Update
I'm with you now.(I think)
I'm going to describe one way of doing this since it sounds like you are in the process of roughing in the wiring and have total access to the walls and ceiling.
Run 12/2 to the switch box.(Your incoming power)
Run 12/3 to each fan box.
At the wall, splice the black in the 12/2 to feed all 3 devices (generic term for switch, receptacle, dimmer, motor control etc.)
Splice the white from 12/2 to the white in each 12/3, that's the neutral of course.
Splice the reds from each 12/3 and attach to the light switch.
Use the black in each 12/3 to go from your motor controller to the black from the fan.
At each fan attach black to black, white to white, and red to blue (or whatever colored wire is left over as it varies from manufacture to manufacture)
And of course ground everything!
Does that cover it?
